Travel writer PAUL MAUGHAN paid a visit to Medjugorje, in Bosnia, to satisfy his curiosity about the Marian pilgrimage site
HE’S as thin as a tooth-pick and, unbelievably, he is looking directly at the sun, even though he has no protection over his eyes. It’s a scorching 33â°C and the sun’s rays are blinding. Madness.
I’m in Bosnia, hugging the shade of a spindly tree while precariously balancing among the rocks on Apparition Hill, Medjugorje – perhaps the most heatedly disputed Marian site in the world.
Religious zealots come in all shapes and sizes but this skinny, elderly character has three Americans in tow and he is trying to convince them that the sun is spinning erratically. It seems normal to me – but my head is certainly spinning in the searing heat and blinding glare. It’s so hot here on the hill that the only thing moving is the old boy’s lips.
Suddenly he shouts, pointing to a large statue of the Virgin set among the hillside rocks, “Look … the statue of Mary … it’s turning gold!”
Really! It doesn’t seem any different to me. After staring at the blinding sun for well over a minute, and without any eye protection, I’m amazed this bloke still has any sight at all. It quickly becomes apparent that his tiny American entourage, and other bystanders like me, see no change in the statue’s appearance either. He prattles on but gradually his group disperse, and I head back down the hill.
While Medjugorje seems to attract zealots, cranks, believers and cynics in equal number, there is no denying that decades of continuous pilgrimage to this spiritual site affirm that some sort of religious manifestation occurs here.
In June 1981 six village children reported seeing visions of the Blessed Virgin around Medjugorje which, apparently, continue up until the present day. Now in adulthood, the six retain their religious convictions and faith in the visions.
There have been many reports of cures, spiritual blessings and remarkable events at this sacred site ensuring millions of pilgrims worldwide make the long and difficult journey to this Eastern European Mecca of Marian phenomena. Joining them annually are legions of visitors driven by nothing more than idle curiosity.
I have long held a desire to visit this site to satisfy my own inquisitiveness, so at last here I am in Medjugorje too.
Interestingly, Medjugorje is somewhat of an enigma. Even though it is yet to gain papal approval, and is viewed with scepticism among some within the Catholic Church, it does nonetheless rank among the world’s leading religious destinations. So is it the real thing?
Well that depends on your perspective and your experiences here. Personally, I’m still undecided.
Prior to our visit to Bosnia we were in England in a little coastal town east of Brighton. It was a Sunday and we were crowded into a small church where a First Holy Communion celebration was under way. Fascinatingly, the parish priest had just taken leave from a group of pilgrims in Medjugorje to hurriedly return to the United Kingdom to officiate at this significant event with his parishioners.
In his homily he spoke of his recent experience in Medjugorje and its positive influence on him. He told us how he heard Confessions non-stop for hours on end over three days, with it becoming apparent to him that numerous folk here were undergoing personal epiphanies and rediscovering their faith (often after decades of neglect). From his perspective, irrespective of the authenticity of the site, good things were happening in Medjugorje.
It’s only a tiny place; dusty, desolate, unattractive – though despite this there is a strong sense of arrival at Medjugorje for it is remote, mysterious … even a little eerie. An uncanny silence fills its unkempt and strangely empty streets despite bus loads of pilgrims from all over the world pouring in continuously.
Perched high in remote rugged mountains in Bosnia it’s not an easy place to reach, and without its Marian drawcard there would be little purpose in ever visiting this essentially bland and rather desperate area. Once a rural backwater, the village now boasts shops, restaurants and hotels with the large, modern St James’ Church at its centre. Its main street is very “touristy” with wall-to-wall small shops all dispensing the same roster of Rosaries, statues and sunglasses. Like most major pilgrim sites it’s a bit tacky and commercial, yet you can’t escape the feeling that something is happening here.
On the edge of town, up a rocky, steep hillside is the apparition site where a steady flow of devout pilgrims slog resolutely, lost in prayer and devotion. Many discover a divine presence here, while for others the place is nothing more than a whim of emotion.
Certainly, if nothing else, a visit to Medjugorje will cause you to re-evaluate your own faith journey.
Most visitors here arrive as part of an organised pilgrimage, however I rolled in during a 12-hour round trip by hire-car from Dubrovnik, on Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast. My goal was to experience Medjugorje independently, as well as visit the nearby war-torn town of Mostar.
Only 25km away, Mostar gained notoriety during the 1990s Balkans conflict when its much admired 400-year-old stone arch bridge was deliberately destroyed in a wanton act of ethnic-cleansing vandalism.
Today, despite evidence of the war, Mostar is a delight to visit, attractive, colourful, energetic and infused with a distinct Turkish character that enhances its appeal. The bridge is restored, although now only a replica, and the brave (or is that crazy) bridge-divers are back in business plummeting the seriously scary 25m into the freezing river below … when cash-induced by tourists to do so.
Bosnia is part of the Balkans area of Eastern Europe and, notwithstanding its recent savage conflicts, today is as safe as houses. The locals are friendly, the area is uncrowded and good value, touring is easy, and English is spoken widely. I enjoyed it here … so will you if you choose to visit.